Georgia, wedged between Turkey and the Black Sea, has blossomed from its Soviet-era past to become a hot tourist destination, offering travellers a heady mix of history and stellar cuisine. Georgia’s natural beauty spans bewildering biodiversity from green vineyards in valleys, marshes and deserts to alpine meadows and snow-covered peaks.
The capital city Tbilisi was built by King Vakhtang Gorgasali who named it after the hot sulphur springs around the area (Tbili means “warm” in the local language). Even today the city has a spa culture with many brick-domed sulphur baths. Some are built in the Persian style with colourful glazed facades, such as the Orbeliani Bathhouse from the 17th-century that looks more like a mosque than a bathhouse.
Old Tbilisi, along the Mtkvari river, has winding streets lined with homes of latticed wooden balconies with pomegranate, mulberry and fig trees growing in communal yards of homes. There is also a mosque, a synagogue and an Orthodox church within a few steps of each other.
Religious art and architecture is another attraction of this country as it was one of the first nations in the world to adopt Christianity. Many ancient sites dot the countryside; from Tbilisi’s oldest surviving church built in the 6th century to the monasteries and cathedrals crowning the Caucasian landscapes like the wonderful Gergeti Trinity Church.
Georgia sits on the ancient Spice Route between Europe, the Middle East and Asia and Georgian cuisine is a symphony of tastes and textures. It draws inspiration from the various cultures and nations that have invaded it with influences from China, Persia, Central Asia and Russia. The signature dish of Georgian cuisine is the khachapuri, a Georgian pizza of leavened flatbread, flaky on the outside and stuffed with tangy, gooey melted cheese. There are also lots of cold appetisers and salads with dips and breads followed by the main courses of meat and vegetables. For dessert try churchkhela – walnuts and other nuts are dipped into different fruit syrups like grape and pomegranate and hung to dry.
One should not miss the spectacular Kazbegi region of the country. Located in the shadow of the iconic Kazbek Mountain and the famous Gergeti Church, it is just 10 km from the Russian border. Here, stay at the Rooms Hotel Kazbegi, perched high on a mountainside and built originally as a sanatorium and retreat for the Soviet elite.
Abandoned for many years, it was renovated and reopened in 2012. The fairy tale mountain region of Svaneti with its high peaks and thousand-year-old defence towers is a great area to explore. If you like hiking, try the 58 km Mestia-to-Ushguli route, which takes you through the remote, UNESCO-listed Upper Svaneti region. Georgia is also a ski destination with more than six ski resorts, the most famous being Gudauri, 120km north of Tbilisi. Gudauri is also one of the most spectacular places to try paragliding.
Another beautiful region is the wine-growing region of Kakheti, with medieval hill towns like Sighnagi. The country has an 8000-year-old wine producing history and is one of the oldest wine-producing countries in the world. Today the country boasts more than 400 native varieties, like the Rkatsiteli and inky red Saperavi, the aromatic Mtsvane and Kisi. Much of the mystique of Georgian wines is created by their method of manufacture, which has made it to UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage List.
Georgia’s rich culture includes their unique polyphonic music tradition, which can be heard in churches and monasteries across the country. The music is also part of the Georgian feast called the supra. The country is also famous for ballet as well as traditional Georgian dances where men leap high into the air with swords and daggers and women in beautiful costumes perform elegant dances.
The country has many cave towns hewn from rock, with pagan and Christian architecture. One of the most famous is Uplistsikhe, literally meaning the ‘Castle of the Gods’; it is one of the oldest settlements of Georgia. Built on a rocky outcrop above the Mtkvari river this is located 15 km from the town of Gori. From the 6th-century BCE to the late Middle Ages, people lived in more than 700 caves connected by twisting staircases, alleys and tunnels.
If you like beaches, head to Batumi and the stunning Black Sea Coast, which used to be the playground of the Russian aristocracy in the past. With seaside bars, trendy restaurants, promenades and pebble beaches, this is a contrast to the rest of the country.
Culture. Cuisine. Castles and caves. Georgia has a little something for everyone.
Khinkali: Georgia’s most recognisable dish, khinkali, is something of a hybrid between Russian pelmeni, ravioli, and Chinese soup dumplings.
Khachapuri: It is one of Georgia’s more creative bread dishes. Try the traditional one with salty sulguni cheese, a big hit in Tbilisi.
Kharcho: Native to Samegrelo in Western Georgia, you’ll often find kharcho listed on restaurant menus in the soup section.
Salad: A traditional Georgian salad consists of chunky wedges of tomato and cucumber dressed with basil and coriander.